The Elmley Village
The Isle of Elmley was - and remains - a remote and inaccessible place, although close to major centres of population, accessible originally only by a few sheep tracks across the marshes from Sheppey, or a hazardous rowing boat ferry from the mainland. It is an area of salt marsh, with occasional slightly more elevated areas consisting of outcrops of London Clay that emerge through the alluvium, such as Elmley Hills, which rise to just over 10 m above sea level. The isle was originally separated from the rest of Sheppey by a wide tidal reach. This is now represented by a set of walled drainage channels.
The isle was enclosed in 1816 by its owners, All Souls College, Oxford. Much of the salt marsh was drained and used as pasturage, mainly for sheep, and a few cattle. At the sale of the lease in 1854 it was emphasised that there was no foot-rot. The pre-industrial parish was a bucolic scene, reminiscent of Far from the Madding Crowd, only less cosmopolitan. The small population of the parish consisted mostly of the families of shepherds. The central Kingshill Farm was run by a bailiff - there was a different one at each decennial census. Also in every census was a labourer designated "wall man", responsible for keeping the sea out.
In the late 1840s, a brickworks was established to the north of Elmley Hills. A barge dock was built, and box kilns were installed. A row of wooden cottages and a pub (The Globe) was built for the workforce. In 1854 sale schedules, the brickfield was described as having "an inexhaustible supply of brickearth". However, evidently it was not an attractive proposition for brick makers, and the site was purchased by William Levett who converted it for production of both Roman and Portland cement. Extra housing was built for a considerably increased workforce. All accommodation was tied, and because of the difficulty of getting in and out, the population were entirely dependent on the cement plant. Eventually there were 22 tied cottages, a manager's house and the pub.
The development of the site can be seen in the census totals, as follows:
| year | farms | industry |
|---|---|---|
| 1801 | 11 | 0 |
| 1811 | 21 | 0 |
| 1821 | 23 | 0 |
| 1831 | 29 | 0 |
| 1841 | 42 | 0 |
| 1851 | 75 | 56 |
| 1861 | 90 | 50 |
| 1871 | 106 | 98 |
| 1881 | 82 | 123 |
| 1891 | 70 | 144 |
| 1901 | 37 | 102 |
| 1911 | 44 | 0 |
| 1921 | 50 | 0 |
| 1931 | 19 | 0 |
| 1951 | 12 | 0 |
| 1961 | 8 | 0 |
The bulk of the cement workers lived in the two terraces of eight dwellings each - the Wooden Cottages and the masonry-built Cement Row. The Wooden Cottages each had base area 3.76 × 6.10 m, and the cottages of Cement Row had base area 3.86 × 7.01 m. The maximum number of people living in the eight Wooden Cottages (1891) was 46. The maximum number of people living in the eight cottages of Cement Row (1881) was 55. Many of the cottages contained more than one household. This works out at about 7.4 m2 per person for cooking, eating and sleeping. There was virtually no escape from this other than the pub. Conditions were scarcely better than those of the inmates of the prison hulks creaking in the Medway.
When the cement plant shut down due to lack of market - which was a frequent occurrence - the workforce were mostly laid off with - at most - 40% pay. Shutdowns commonly occurred between Christmas and mid-February. Newspapers regularly reported assistance given by the Sheppey Poor Law Union during these periods. In one instance, the Union received a shirty letter from George Burge Jr, saying that any starvation among the workforce was due to the "improvidence" of the workers, who spent two thirds of their pay in the pub (in fact, his pub). I'm sure they spoke very well of him. It's hard to understand how they got anyone to work in this hell-hole; certainly, the census shows a large turnover of employees.
On 29/11/1897, with the plant already teetering on the edge of extinction, the sea wall broke and a spring tide flooded the plant and village. Thousands of cattle and sheep were drowned in the surrounding area, as was the farm bailiff.
In 1904, an intrepid reporter of the Sheerness Guardian and East Kent Advertiser (8/10/1904, p7) made his way to the plant by bike. It appears that despite concern being raised in the local council about the lack of pupils at the school, none of the officials had actually been there, so the state of affairs needed reporting. He described, in jocular style, the now-deserted village, saying the houses were better than many in Sheerness. The pub was closed but still fully equipped, and a sign over the door read:
KEZIA SWAN
Licensed to sell beer and to be drunk on or off the premises.
Kezia Swan (b 26/8/1856, South Shields, Co Durham: d 1929) was the widow of the previous publican, George Swan, who drowned in 1897 while attempting to cross the Swale. In 1891 they had lived in Burham, where her husband was born. They moved to Elmley around 1894. In 1911, she was living in Halling, with a daughter and two sons who worked at Halling Manor.